Ticks until it warms up any idea?

I don't speak retard

ur guanna have to elaborate on that one please

I think its a piston rod but not sure on it. and yes head gasket is fixed I got alittle bored.

A piston rod? How the hell have you come to that conclusion? Unless you have some serious power adders on that car, ur piston rods should never fail. Are the cylinder walls all marked up? Did it have a serious vibration to it while it was running? I highly doubt it

you might be talking about a push rod, because those bend commonly after head gasket jobs because nubs don't tighten the rockers down in the proper sequence or over tighten them.

Either way, I'm going to need way more details.

worn tappets

I start the car. there is a ticking that comes from the engine. 10 mins after it goes away. also I did the head gasket the other way to try it out and it did stop the leak. so no way i could have over tighten or under tighten anything when I didn't take anything apart.


ANYONE LOOKING TO FIX HEAD GASKET AND JUST DONT GIVE A fluff ABOUT THERE CAR ANYMORE. USE BLUE DEVIL IT WORKS TO STOP THE LEAK. what happens after no clue still finding that out.

Please tell me English is not your first language =]

If math is a language, then no english is not my first ;)

lucas

oh dude lucas will plug your bum hole if you drank it. its that good

My guess is gunna be weak lifters..yup

something in the valve train , and some of them things are important enough that they need adjusted once in awhile

Sounds like your piston return springs.

piston slap or if it has hydraulic lifters.

those are the only 2 things that will usually stop making noise after the car is warm.

sounds like your car is a transformer waiting for you to look the other war, Shia Labeouf

I was gonna say sticky lifters or valves. 9 outta 10 times it's one of those.

all I care about is if I can make it to wed. then I get my other car on the road and say fluff this car. Its been a money pit from day one. I have had 2 others that have been nothing but great but this one is a sh*t box.



Sh*t box 95 mustang

New hope better 2002 Saturn SC2 (have not had good luck with GM in the pass).

From what I remember it's a ford rustang, don't remember if it was the 5.0 or 3.8, but that matters little.

So did you actually take the heads off and replace the gasket or just use blue devil crap? I mean ur saying conflicking things

put the gasket the other way to see if it stopes the leak? WTF dude? I hope you didn't do that.

Clicking generally has to do with the valve train, either one of your springs are bad, or if you actually changed the gasket you improperly tightened the rockers, because it's a tedious process and most amatjre mechanics get it wrong.

Like I said, u need to be much more specific.

One of my friends was replacing the upper intake gasket on a ford 3.8 once and actually dropped a washer into the cylinder. That Kade a food clicking sound and fluffed up the aluminum heads all to fluff, so he came to me and I tore the motor down, he didn't wanna buy more heads, so I did my best to grind the heads back to flat and put it back together.

Need way more details dude.

p.s. All you ppl preaching about Lucas, it's a good product, but it's not for a head gasket situation. All these stop leak products, all they do is swell the gaskets and seals to the fubar point, and when it don't stop the leak, instead of having to replace one gasket, you gotta replace em all.

I reccomend not being lazy and cheap and fixing it right the first time

I'm too lazy to edit all the typos in that post. Sue me u know what I'm talking about

i didn't read any of the other posts, but sounds like its 1 of 2 things:
crankshaft bearings are shot.
or you valve keepers

Ok so I re-read ur posts, did it click before you destroyed ur engine with blue devil?

basically you put an addative in ur engine that swelled all your seals, it very well would have swelled the o rings in the valve seats, causing your rockers to tighten and that could be causing the clicking. If all you sis was put that addative in, I'm guessing that's the problem.

If you have any idea what ur doing, I suggest you take the valve covers off, pull up a tightning sequence and specs for your rockers, and listen them all the way, take the push rods out, check the tips and seats for ware, if there are none, put em back in and tighten them properly.

Most tightning instructions are very gauge, like tighten them till the friction prevents the rod from rotating, then tighten another 270 degrees, ull just have to put some research in and make sure you do it right because doing it wrong is a good way to bend a pushrod or snap a valve off into the cylinder.

fluff my iPod FYI. Hate typing on this thing

the car is worth nothing as a resell because of the hail storm we had here in july and everything else wrong with it before I did anything. I used Blue Devil because i needed a fast fixed I had no time to do it the right way. the Insurance needed to see the car early this week to work out the hail storm damage. I got lucky they did not find out about the other problems with it. got a nice check for 1500.00 from them because of the Hail damage was more then the car is worth.


It has 377k kms on it

Tran about to go.

needs new Windshield.

pass mirror



leaking at every point you can think of.
Oil pan, rear dif, brakes, trany

then there is the damage to the body before the storm that they work out to be close to 6k. It was just time for a new car and everything that has happen in the pass 16k kms has been a nightmare most of put in close to $2000 in parts (new brakes on back (550) 2 ball joints (300) 2 coil springs (400) rad (125) and more i am just not listing just way tomany repairs.(this is just in parts)

U need a new mechanic is rear pads and rotors cost you $550 lol

I replaced the rear pads and rotors with performance parts on my altima myself tor a grand total of 350. Oem parts would of been something like $120

need new calipers too Ford

Onlything worse than a ford is a crysler

chevy powah!

so far every GM i have owned was Sh*t. Lets see if the saturn can change my mind.

also forget to say I am in canada prices are higher here think of this shops change anywhere around $110-$140 a hr

That why you grow a pair, be a man, and fix ur own cars. I can do anyhing from an oil change to a complete engine rebuild. I generelly don't mess with eletrical problems or auto transmisions, if someone wants me to work on either of those I carge more than my usual payment of a case of beer

Hr -- I remember us talking on IRC and specifically telling you Blue Devil would fluff your car up. Not to be rude, but I can no longer offer vehicle advise to one who will not listen to the advice given to him already.

I wish ya the best of luck and sorry to hear about your new found issues.

This just might be the most intelligent thing I've ever seen mrford post :-)

it goes in order of ford>chebby>dcx

your drive a camaro so obviously youve seen one up close.

I "drive" a Nissan

I own a chevy drag car

I have worked on every make you can think of, including a ferreri 355 a d once did some minor work on a diablo

I have done more auto work than most mechanics. So say what u will, I know a few things

he also looks great in a G-String....

but didnt we discount "working" on those cars excludes modding them on Xbox????

forza doesnt count :P

i daily drive a GM product so i guess i cant make too much fun lol.

so how about Mustang>Camaro

hey forza is serious.....

Ok thats just fluffed up now my car stopped ticking. it ticked on the way to work. then when I got off it was not ticking. what could be the problem now Ford?

Piece of dirt/sludge stuck inside a hydraulic lifter..got spit out..

Gran turismo > forza

and watch ur flippin mouth! Camaro > Mustang

never

Well let me get this straight. The clicking stopped, and that's a problem?

Snaw, it's a 95 rustang with a pos ford pushrod motor

u actually think is has hydralic lifters? LOL

Of course he does..if they are not solid and oil flows thru them(99% of cars) they are hydraulic..look it up..
[edit]
Never had to prime new lifters during a rebuild?

Ford never said the clicking not happening anymore was a problem but just want to now why it was clicking in the first place. Its a learning thing.

Well fluff fluff me, ur right, it even has roller lifters.

Would of lost money on that one.

Hehehe..tis' cool

Ford I do what I can do myself on the cars i own. but sometimes I run into problems I dont now still. I am only a level 1 mechanic. and with today job market its hard to find a place to train you to a full lic mechanic. every place I now thats hiring only hiring level 3 and up.

Right now I am rebuilding a 52 chev too.

Ok, tbh I don't know for sure, but let's go over this

you put that blue devil fluff in ur engine, that has a extremely high viscosity and is designed to swell all seals it comes into contact with. There are 40+ little seals gaskets, and o-rings in that engine. When some of them expand it can cause clearence issues, although minor ones, that could cause clicking till they get re-worked in

the higher viscosity can also cause problems, untill it gets fully mixed in and burned fluid.

Older engines, especially fords, usually develop lifter ticking, my dads 01 4.0 explored ticked pretty good at 40k miles. They are roller lifters as well so they have moving parts that can ware and tear.


There are so many possibilities it's not even funny, like snaw said, could of even of been a price of dirt

Here is one Ill put on the table and the reason I need to rebuild the tranny. this is for ford and snawdog anyone Is welcome to answer this.


when the engine is running the Tanny clicks until you push in the clutch. If you let go of the clutch it clicks again. the clicking stops only when the clutch is pushed down or car is off. sounds like a loss belt if that helps. I thought it was a loss belt the first time I hard it.

Throwout bearing